“I remember watching my grandfather ritually brew coffee,” Jonathan Wingo recounts.  “He drank it black.  For years I would drink black coffee in search for the moment when I could admit it tasted good.”

That you have to work towards something to appreciate it is Wingo’s rub for fermented grain mash.

“Whiskey is not easily approachable.  Its character is not so obvious.  You have to willingly explore to find something you like.  When you do, the ‘ah-ha!’ moment happens.  You get it.  And you find other whiskey drinkers who had a similar whiskey awakening.”

I marinated with Wingo a couple hours in The Whiskey Shop in Brooklyn.  People passed through for a recommendation, a story or a sample of Wingo’s most recently revered firewater.  With neighborly vigor he insisted I compare this malt to that grain.  It was challenging to distinguish between the types and tastes until Wingo unraveled the Whiskey meet and greet.  So here is how to get to know a Whiskey:

The introduction begins with the bouquet – what can you draw from the whiskey’s aroma?  Take a sturdy sniff.  This is how one initially contextualizes the forthcoming tasting experience.

Then the palette is greeted with the alcohol content.  This is the burn.   A common response with whiskey, which often goes unacknowledged, is the alcohol content, something that is at least 40%.  That is not something the body takes lightly.  In some ways, it’s unpleasant.  But as you relax, as the mouth becomes aware or numb enough – depending upon how you look at it – and the alcohol content is set aside, you are led to the notes.

The notes speak to the Whiskey’s intended flavor.  This is where one contemplates the tastes.  A grain or cereal, bright or syrupy, the viscosity and texture, all come quickly after the alcohol burn.

Flavors are either singular or plural depending upon the mash (mix of milled grains).  Notes are often broken down as the front, middle and finish.  This breakdown, however, portrays whiskeys without front, middle and finishing notes as more complex, which isn’t the case.  Some whiskeys are distilled with only one distinct note.

As notes come and go, the last and arguably most crucial step is the debrief.  Reflect on the notes, the after taste, the experience as a whole.  What notes were most pronounced?  What was the finish?  Is this whiskey worth seeking out?
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“The debrief is only complete,” smiles Wingo, “when you have another sip.”

 

Visit Jonathan Wingo and the Whiskey Shop at 44 Berry Street, Brooklyn, NY 11249.